Roof inspections can feel a little mysterious until you’ve been through one. You might picture someone climbing a ladder, walking around for five minutes, and then handing you a bill. In reality, a good inspection is more like a full health checkup for your home’s first line of defense—looking for current issues, early warning signs, and the small details that can snowball into expensive repairs if they’re missed.
If you’re a homeowner, an inspection is also one of the best ways to get clarity. Is that ceiling stain old or active? Are those shingles “fine for now” or “one storm away” from trouble? Should you budget for a repair this season or start planning for a replacement? This checklist breaks down what a thorough roof inspection typically includes, what you can safely look for yourself, and what pros will evaluate with trained eyes.
Because weather in West Michigan can be rough—freeze-thaw cycles, heavy snow loads, wind, and spring downpours—it’s smart to approach roof care as ongoing maintenance, not a once-a-decade emergency. Let’s walk through what should be on the inspection list, step by step, so you can feel confident you’re getting a complete assessment.
When it makes sense to schedule a roof inspection
Many homeowners wait until they see a leak, but by then the damage is often already spreading inside the roof system. A roof is layered—shingles, underlayment, flashing, decking, ventilation—and water can travel in sneaky ways before it shows up on drywall. An inspection is how you catch small failures early, when the fix is simpler and cheaper.
A good rule of thumb is to get an inspection at least once a year, plus after major events like hail, windstorms, or a heavy ice season. It’s also a smart move before buying or selling a home, and any time you notice warning signs like missing shingles, granules in gutters, musty attic smells, or unexplained spikes in heating and cooling bills.
If you’re in West Michigan and you want a professional baseline assessment, working with experienced roofers in Grand Rapids, MI can help you understand what’s normal aging versus what’s actively failing—especially because local conditions (snow load, tree cover, lake-effect weather) can change how roofs wear over time.
How a thorough roof inspection is usually structured
Most quality inspections follow a consistent flow: start from the ground, move to the roof surface (when safe), then evaluate the interior spaces that connect to the roof—attic, ceilings, and ventilation. This “outside-in and inside-out” approach matters because some problems are visible only from the exterior (like cracked flashing), while others show up first inside (like condensation, mold, or decking stains).
Inspectors also document everything. Photos, measurements, written notes, and sometimes even a simple roof diagram. That documentation isn’t just for your records—it’s helpful if you ever need to file an insurance claim, compare quotes, or track changes year to year.
Finally, a real inspection should end with clear next steps: what needs immediate attention, what can be monitored, and what maintenance can extend the roof’s life. You shouldn’t be left guessing what’s urgent and what’s optional.
Ground-level exterior checks (what’s visible before anyone climbs)
Rooflines, sagging, and “shape” of the roof
Before anyone gets on a ladder, the roof’s overall shape tells a story. Inspectors look for sagging ridges, dips between rafters, or uneven planes that may indicate structural issues, wet decking, or long-term load stress from snow and ice. Even subtle warping can be a clue that moisture has been present for a while.
From the ground, you can also spot “wavy” shingle lines, which sometimes happen when shingles are buckling from heat, poor ventilation, or installation issues. A roof should look consistent and flat along its planes (with normal variations depending on the home’s framing). If something looks off from the curb, it’s worth a closer look.
Inspectors may also check fascia and soffits for rot, peeling paint, or dark streaking. Those aren’t always “roof problems,” but they often connect to drainage and ventilation—two things that heavily impact roof lifespan.
Gutters, downspouts, and drainage patterns
Gutters are part of the roof system, even if they don’t sit on the roof itself. During an inspection, pros look for clogged sections, loose hangers, improper slope, and signs of overflow (like water staining on siding). Overflow can push water back under shingles at the eaves, especially during ice dam conditions.
Downspouts matter too. If they discharge too close to the foundation, water can splash back onto fascia and lower roof edges, or contribute to basement moisture. Inspectors often recommend extensions or splash blocks if drainage is dumping right at the base of the house.
A sneaky but common clue: shingle granules collecting in gutters. A little is normal, especially on older roofs, but heavy accumulation may signal accelerated shingle wear or recent storm damage.
On-roof surface inspection (shingles, seams, and wear patterns)
Shingle condition: missing, curling, cracking, and granule loss
Once on the roof (only when safe), inspectors check the shingles up close. They look for missing tabs, lifted edges, curling corners, and cracks. These issues can be caused by age, heat, wind, poor ventilation, or manufacturing defects. The key is whether the damage is isolated (a repair) or widespread (a sign the roof is nearing end-of-life).
Granule loss is another big one. Asphalt shingles rely on granules to protect the asphalt from UV rays. When granules wash away, shingles age faster and become more brittle. Inspectors may look for “bald” patches, uneven wear, and color changes that indicate the protective layer is thinning.
They also pay attention to nail pops—where fasteners work their way up and create tiny entry points for water. Nail pops can happen from expansion and contraction, improper nailing depth, or decking movement. They’re small, but they can cause persistent leaks if ignored.
Valleys and transitions where water concentrates
Roof valleys are high-priority inspection zones because they carry a lot of water. Inspectors check for debris buildup, worn shingle edges, exposed underlayment, and signs that water is jumping the valley line. In Michigan’s leaf-heavy neighborhoods, valleys can clog and force water sideways under shingles.
Transitions—like where a roof meets a wall, dormer, or porch roof—are also common leak areas. These spots depend heavily on correct flashing and proper shingle layering. Even a small gap or poorly sealed seam can let water in during wind-driven rain.
If you’ve ever had “mystery leaks” that only show up during certain storms, valleys and transitions are often the culprit. A detailed inspection here can save you from chasing the problem season after season.
Ridge caps, hips, and the roof’s highest stress points
Ridge caps and hip shingles take a beating because they sit at the highest points, where wind pressure is strongest. Inspectors look for cracks, missing pieces, and loose fasteners. If ridge caps are failing, water can enter at the top and travel down the decking before it ever appears inside.
These areas are also tied to ventilation on many homes. If you have a ridge vent, inspectors check whether it’s properly installed, not blocked, and not damaged. A compromised ridge vent can let in rain or snow while also failing to vent heat and moisture from the attic.
Because these components are so exposed, they can show storm damage earlier than other areas. That makes them useful “early indicators” when you’re deciding whether the roof needs spot repairs or a broader plan.
Flashing and penetrations (the most common leak sources)
Chimney flashing and masonry joints
Chimneys are classic leak zones because they interrupt the roof plane and create multiple seams. Inspectors check step flashing, counterflashing, and the condition of sealants. They also look at the masonry itself—cracked mortar joints and spalling bricks can allow water to enter and then migrate into the attic or walls.
Another detail: the cricket (a small diverter) behind wider chimneys. Without a properly built cricket, water and debris can pile up behind the chimney and increase leak risk. If you’ve had chronic chimney-side leaks, this is one of the first things a pro will evaluate.
Even if the shingles look okay, compromised chimney flashing can cause major interior damage. That’s why a good inspection spends real time here, not just a quick glance.
Plumbing vents, exhaust vents, and pipe boots
Those rubber or neoprene boots around plumbing vents don’t last forever. UV exposure and temperature swings can crack them, creating a small ring-shaped gap that funnels water straight down the pipe penetration. Inspectors look for splits, brittleness, and loose collars.
Bathroom and kitchen exhaust vents are also checked for proper flashing and sealing. Sometimes vents are installed in a way that allows condensation to drip back into the attic, or they’re not vented to the exterior at all (which is a ventilation problem more than a roofing problem, but it still affects the roof system).
Penetrations are where “tiny” problems become big ones. A small boot crack might not show up as a ceiling stain for months, but it can quietly soak insulation and stain decking the whole time.
Skylights and roof-mounted accessories
Skylights can be great, but they’re detail-heavy. Inspectors check the skylight flashing kit, surrounding shingles, and any signs of condensation between panes (which can indicate a failed seal). They also check for interior staining around the skylight shaft.
Roof-mounted accessories like satellite mounts, solar attachments, or old antenna brackets can create leak points if they weren’t installed with proper flashing. Inspectors look for exposed fasteners, cracked sealant, and movement around mounts.
If you’re planning to add solar or a new skylight, getting an inspection first is smart. It helps ensure the roof is in good enough shape to support an upgrade without creating a “redo” situation in a couple of years.
Attic inspection (where roof problems often show up first)
Signs of active leaks and past moisture
Inside the attic, inspectors look for water stains on the underside of the roof decking, dark streaks along rafters, and damp insulation. Fresh moisture may look shiny or feel damp, while older leaks often leave brown rings or blackened wood.
They’ll also check around penetrations from the inside—chimneys, vents, and skylights—to see if the leak path is visible. This can help pinpoint the source more accurately than exterior inspection alone, especially if water is traveling along framing members.
One important nuance: not all attic moisture is from roof leaks. Condensation can mimic leak damage, which is why ventilation and insulation checks are part of a proper inspection.
Ventilation: intake, exhaust, and airflow balance
Ventilation is a big deal in climates with cold winters and warm summers. Inspectors check for soffit intake vents (and whether they’re blocked by insulation), as well as exhaust vents like ridge vents, box vents, or gable vents. The goal is balanced airflow: cool air in at the eaves, warm moist air out at the top.
When ventilation is poor, heat and moisture build up. In winter, that can contribute to ice dams; in summer, it can bake shingles from below and shorten their life. Moisture also encourages mold growth and can warp decking over time.
If you’ve noticed ice damming, frosty nails in the attic, or musty smells, an inspection that includes ventilation analysis can be more valuable than simply patching a symptom on the roof surface.
Insulation levels and attic bypasses
Inspectors often note insulation depth and coverage. Low insulation can cause heat loss, which warms the roof surface unevenly and can worsen ice dam risk. But too much insulation shoved into soffits can block intake airflow, creating a different problem.
They may also look for attic bypasses—gaps around light fixtures, plumbing stacks, attic hatches, and duct penetrations where warm indoor air escapes into the attic. That warm air carries moisture, and when it hits cold surfaces, it condenses.
Even though insulation and air sealing aren’t “roofing materials,” they directly affect roof performance. A good inspection connects these dots so you’re not stuck in a cycle of winter issues and spring repairs.
Interior living-space checks (ceilings, walls, and subtle clues)
Ceiling stains, bubbling paint, and drywall changes
Inspectors may ask to see the rooms under known problem areas. Ceiling stains are the obvious sign, but bubbling paint, peeling texture, or soft drywall can indicate ongoing moisture. Even faint discoloration can matter, especially if it grows after storms.
They’ll also consider timing. If stains darken after snow melt, that can suggest ice damming or a slow leak near the eaves. If stains appear after wind-driven rain, flashing or a specific slope-facing direction could be involved.
If you’re doing your own pre-check, take photos and dates. A simple timeline helps a roofer connect symptoms to weather events and narrow down likely sources.
Odors, humidity, and comfort issues
Sometimes the first clue isn’t visual—it’s comfort. A persistent musty smell, especially near attic access points or upper-floor closets, can indicate moisture issues. High indoor humidity can also contribute to condensation in the attic, which then looks like a roof problem.
Inspectors may ask about bathroom fan use, dryer venting, and whether you’ve noticed foggy windows in winter. These household factors can affect attic moisture levels and create conditions that shorten roof life.
It’s all connected: roof, attic, ventilation, and indoor air. A complete inspection doesn’t treat the roof like it’s isolated from the rest of the house.
Storm damage assessment (what gets checked after wind or hail)
Wind damage: lifted shingles and broken seals
Wind damage isn’t always dramatic. Sometimes shingles aren’t missing—they’re just lifted enough that the seal strip breaks. Inspectors look for creases, raised edges, and shingles that don’t lie flat. Those shingles are more likely to blow off in the next storm and can allow water intrusion even before they detach.
They’ll also check ridge caps and perimeter edges, since wind often attacks these first. If you have trees nearby, they may look for impact marks from branches or debris.
After high wind events, it’s worth inspecting sooner rather than later. Quick repairs can prevent a minor issue from becoming a widespread blow-off.
Hail damage: bruising, granule displacement, and soft spots
Hail damage can be tricky because it’s not always obvious from the ground. Inspectors look for circular impact marks, granule loss in defined spots, and “bruising” where the shingle mat is compromised. On some shingles, hail hits feel soft when pressed (pros know how to check without causing damage).
They’ll also check metal components—gutters, downspouts, vents, flashing—for dents. Metal dents can support a hail claim and also indicate the hail size and direction.
If you suspect hail, avoid climbing onto the roof yourself. Hail-damaged shingles can be more fragile, and walking on them can cause extra breakage.
Safety and access: what a homeowner can (and shouldn’t) do
DIY checks that are genuinely helpful
You can do a lot from the ground: scan for missing shingles, look for uneven rooflines, check gutters for granules, and watch how water flows during rain. You can also inspect your attic with a flashlight for stains, damp insulation, and blocked vents—just step carefully on framing, not drywall.
Indoors, keep an eye on ceiling corners, around chimneys, and near skylights. If you see recurring staining or paint bubbling, document it. Photos after each major storm can reveal patterns that are otherwise easy to miss.
These DIY observations make professional inspections more efficient because you can point to specific areas and symptoms, rather than starting from scratch.
Where it’s better to leave it to the pros
Walking on a roof is risky, especially on steep slopes, wet shingles, icy surfaces, or older roofs where materials are brittle. Even single-story homes can be dangerous if the ground is uneven or if there’s limited ladder placement.
It’s also easy to accidentally cause damage—lifting shingles incorrectly, cracking a sealed tab, or dislodging granules. Pros know where to step, how to assess without disturbing materials, and when conditions aren’t safe.
If you’re unsure, it’s better to schedule a professional inspection than to gamble with a fall or an avoidable roof issue.
What the inspection report should include (so you’re not left guessing)
Photos, plain-language notes, and priority levels
A useful inspection report includes photos of problem areas and clear descriptions of what’s happening. Ideally, it also separates items into priority levels: urgent repairs, recommended maintenance, and items to monitor. Without that structure, it’s hard to make decisions or budget realistically.
Look for notes about location and scope. “Damaged shingles” is vague; “three lifted shingles on the north slope near the valley” is actionable. The more specific the report, the easier it is to compare bids and understand what you’re paying for.
If you’re dealing with insurance, documentation matters even more. Photos, dates, and a summary of likely causes can help support your claim and reduce back-and-forth.
Estimated remaining life and repair-vs-replace guidance
No one can predict the exact day a roof will fail, but experienced inspectors can estimate remaining service life based on shingle condition, ventilation, installation quality, and local weather exposure. This helps you plan—especially if you’d rather replace on your timeline than during an emergency.
They should also explain the “why” behind recommendations. For example: if the roof is 18 years old but well-ventilated and only has minor wear, repairs may make sense. If it’s 12 years old but has widespread granule loss and recurring leaks, replacement might be the smarter long-term move.
Good guidance doesn’t pressure you; it gives you options, tradeoffs, and a clear picture of risk.
Common roof issues in Grand Rapids-area homes (and what inspectors watch for)
Ice dams and eave damage
Ice dams form when heat escapes into the attic, melts snow on the upper roof, and then refreezes near the colder eaves. Water backs up behind the ice and can slip under shingles. Inspectors look for damaged shingles near the eaves, staining on fascia, and signs of water intrusion along exterior walls.
They’ll often connect the dots between insulation, air sealing, ventilation, and roof edge protection (like ice and water shield). Fixing ice dams usually requires addressing the underlying heat loss, not just patching the roof surface.
If you’ve had recurring ice dams, ask your inspector specifically what they see at the eaves and what improvements could reduce the risk next winter.
Moss, algae, and shaded roof slopes
Tree cover and humidity can encourage moss and algae growth, especially on north-facing slopes that stay damp longer. Inspectors check whether growth is cosmetic or whether it’s lifting shingles and holding moisture against the roof surface.
They may recommend gentle cleaning methods or zinc/copper strips depending on the roof type. It’s important to avoid aggressive pressure washing, which can strip granules and shorten shingle life.
Even if moss looks minor, it’s worth addressing early. Once it spreads into thicker mats, it becomes harder to remove without damaging the shingles.
Older flashing details on historic or remodeled homes
Grand Rapids has plenty of older homes and remodeled roofs where flashing details vary widely. Inspectors pay close attention to step flashing at walls, chimney details, and any “patchwork” areas where additions meet older rooflines.
Sometimes the roof covering is newer, but the flashing is reused—or installed in a shortcut way that works for a few years and then fails. A good inspection will call out these details and recommend durable fixes, not temporary caulk solutions.
If your home has multiple roof sections, dormers, or a complex layout, expect the inspection to spend extra time on transitions. That’s normal—and it’s a sign they’re being thorough.
How to use an inspection to plan repairs wisely
Bundling small fixes before they become big ones
One of the best outcomes of an inspection is catching several small issues and handling them in a single service visit. Replacing a few damaged shingles, resealing a vent boot, and correcting a flashing detail can collectively prevent leaks and extend roof life.
If repairs are recommended, ask for a clear scope: what materials will be replaced, how the area will be sealed, and what warranty applies to the repair work. You want to know you’re getting a fix that will last through multiple seasons.
When you’re ready to act on findings, professional Grand Rapids roof repair services can help you prioritize the most leak-prone areas first—especially around flashing, valleys, and penetrations.
Knowing when replacement is the more cost-effective move
Repairs are great when the roof is fundamentally sound. But if an inspection shows widespread shingle failure, repeated leaks, or sagging decking, pouring money into repeated patch jobs can be frustrating and expensive. The inspection should help you spot that tipping point.
Ask about the “system” factors: ventilation, underlayment condition, flashing quality, and decking integrity. A roof isn’t just shingles. If multiple layers are compromised, replacement can solve root causes rather than chasing symptoms.
Also consider timing. If you’re planning to sell in a couple of years, a roof nearing the end of its life can affect offers. An inspection gives you the information you need to decide whether to repair now, replace now, or disclose and price accordingly.
If the inspection leads to a new roof: what should be evaluated next
Material options and what fits your home
If replacement is on the table, the next step is usually evaluating material choices: architectural shingles, impact-resistant shingles, or specialty options depending on your home and budget. Inspectors may also discuss color, algae resistance, and warranty differences.
In West Michigan, it’s worth asking about ice and water shielding at eaves and valleys, upgraded underlayments, and enhanced ventilation. These aren’t just “extras”—they’re often the difference between a roof that performs well for decades and one that struggles every winter.
A replacement plan should also include protecting landscaping, managing debris, and verifying that decking is sound before new materials go on. A good installer will explain how they handle each of these steps.
Workmanship details that matter more than most people realize
Even the best shingles can fail early if they’re installed poorly. That’s why an inspection-driven replacement plan should focus on workmanship details: correct nailing patterns, proper flashing installation, clean valley construction, and ventilation balance.
Ask how penetrations will be handled—new boots, new flashing, and how sealants are used. Also ask what happens if damaged decking is found during tear-off. Clear answers here prevent surprises mid-project.
If you’re comparing contractors, it helps to talk with a dedicated roof installation company in Grand Rapids that can walk you through the build details in plain language and show you exactly what’s included.
A homeowner-friendly checklist you can keep and reuse
Exterior checklist (ground and roof surface)
From the ground: look for missing shingles, uneven rooflines, sagging ridges, damaged fascia/soffits, and gutter overflow stains. Check downspouts for proper drainage away from the home. After storms, scan for debris impact marks.
If safely visible from a ladder (without stepping onto the roof): check for loose gutters, heavy granule buildup, and obvious shingle curling at edges. Look at flashing lines where the roof meets walls or chimneys for gaps or lifted metal.
On-roof (best left to pros): shingle brittleness, nail pops, valley wear, ridge cap condition, and the integrity of flashing around every penetration.
Attic and interior checklist (the “hidden evidence”)
In the attic: look for stained decking, damp insulation, moldy smells, and blocked soffit vents. Check whether bathroom fans and dryer vents are properly routed outside (not dumping moist air into the attic).
In living spaces: track ceiling stains, bubbling paint, peeling texture, and recurring musty odors. Note when symptoms appear (after snow melt vs. after heavy rain) because timing helps identify the source.
Comfort clues: upstairs rooms that are consistently too hot in summer or too cold in winter can point to ventilation and insulation issues that also affect roof performance.
Getting the most value from your next inspection
Before the appointment, gather a few basics: the roof’s approximate age, any past repair records, and notes on where you’ve seen stains or drafts. If you’ve had recent storms, mention the dates. The more context you provide, the easier it is for an inspector to connect symptoms to causes.
During the inspection, don’t be shy about asking questions. Where is the roof most vulnerable? Are there signs of improper ventilation? What’s the most likely source of that stain? A good inspector will explain what they’re seeing without turning it into a sales pitch.
Afterward, use the report to plan. Even if no immediate work is needed, you’ll have a baseline you can compare against next year. That’s how roof care becomes predictable instead of stressful—and how you keep small issues from turning into major surprises.
